Milan's Favourites

O que têm em comum Alberta Ferretti, Jil Sander, Marni e Prada? As quatro marcas apresentaram as suas colecções a semana passada em Milão e com óptimas reacções pelo público e críticos.

Colecções que nos relembram o porquê do sucesso destas marcas, apesar dos seus diferentes estilos.

What do Alberta Ferretti, Jil Sander, Marni and Prada have in common? The four labels presented their collections last week in Milan and with great reactions from the public and critics.

Collections that remind us why they're so successful, each in their own style.

 

Alberta Ferretti, com a sua eterna elegância e subtileza apresenta uma colecção que, à semelhança do que se viu em Nova York e mesmo em alguns desfiles em Londres, nos leva de volta aos anos 20. Com uma silhueta recta e cintura descaída, surgem vestidos com um toque de transparência e de figuras geométricas inspiradas em motivos africanos.

Alberta Ferretti with its eternal elegance and subtlety presents a collection that, as seen in New York and even some shows in London, takes us back to the roaring 20's. With a straight silhouette and a dropped waistline, come sheer dresses and geometric figures inspired in African motifs.

Em Jil Sander Raf Simons começa o desfile com a tradicional camisa branca, ícone da marca, reconstruída num sofisticado vestido branco.

Entre a pureza dos looks totais brancos, a cor e silhueta dos anos 50, surgem também pinturas de Picasso, numa paleta monocromática que, segundo Raf Simons, é o ícone do modernismo. O branco total e a icónica camisa voltam no fim do desfile para um grande final, num fascinante vestido de noiva para a "mulher Jil Sander".

At Jil Sander Raf Simons starts the runway with the traditional white poplin shirt reconstructed into a sophisticated white dress.

Between the total white looks' purity, the 50's silhouette and colours, we can also see the outlines of Picasso's paintings, which according to Raf Simons is the icon of Modernism, in a monochromatic palette. The total white and the label's iconic shirt come back for the great finale in a stunning "Jil Sander" wedding dress.

Se em Alberta Ferretti acolhemos a silhueta dos anos 20, em Marni Consuelo Castiglioni traz-nos de volta os anos 60 e 70. Numa colecção que apela à inocência e pureza, com um toque clássico, assistimos ao evolução das roupas assim como da mulher representada. O desfile começa com uma série de interpretações do babydoll em tons suaves e pastéis mostrando-nos uma mulher inocente e jovem, mas ao longo do desfile vamos observando um crescimento e amadurecimento, passando por uma fase florida, padrões geométricos trazidos dos anos 70, e deixando os tons pastéis para trás para passar aos tons mais profundos de azuis e verdes.

And if in Alberta Ferretti we celebrated the 20's silhouette, at Marni Consuelo Castiglioni brings us back the 60's and 70's. In a collection that embraces innocence and purity, with a touch of classic, we sit and watch to the evolution of clothes and of the woman throughout the show. The runway begins with a series of babydolls interpretations in soft and pastel tones showing us a young and naive woman, but as the runway continues we can watch a growth and maturing, going through a floral phase, 70's geometric motifs, and leaving behind the soft tones that are replaced by deep blues and greens.

Por último, Prada substituiu o estampado de bananas que marcou a temporada passada por carros. Numa atitude de eterna infância em silhuetas bastante femininas e elegantes dos anos 50, podemos ver saias, tops, casacos de seda com estampados de pequenas miniaturas de carros desenhados. Desde saias plissadas a saias em pele, Miuccia Prada traz-nos uma colecção que une a doçura da mulher com a sofisticação.

Last but not least, Prada replaced last season's banana's print for cars. In an eternal childhood attitude allied with a very feminine and elegant 50's silhouette, we can see dresses, skirts, tops and silky jackets filled with printed miniatures of cartoon cars. From pleaded skirts to leather, Miuccia Prada brings us a collection that unites sweetness with sophistication.

Próxima paragem? Paris!

Next stop? Paris!

Lau.

Supercrawl in Hamilton, ON (September 10, 2011)

While the Toronto International Film Festival occupied most of my time during the period of September 8 to the 18, I'd consciously took Septemeber 10 off in order to check out a arts and music festival called Supercrawl in Hamilton, ON. I'd heard of the festival for a few years now and had hopes of going but it didn't happen, but when I'd seen the musical lineup this year which included amongst others, Broken Social Scene, J Mascis, Plants and Animals and Basia Bulat performing with the Hamilton Philharmonic Orchestra, I made up my mind quick to check it out. Somewhat serendipitously, I was clued into the festival and the music lineup by Basia Bulat herself who I'd spoke to briefly after her solo show in Mississauga at Celebration Square just a week prior to Supercrawl.

Taking over several blocks of Hamilton's James Street North neighbourhood, there was an array of artwork, sculptures, vendors, and music stages. While I was there primarily for the music, I was impressed with the art that could be found at different spots along the street - photographs, paintings, street murals, sculptures. As well there was an array of artisans selling and vendors selling their wares. In addition to that, there was a variety of food trucks, food vendor as well as local restaurants and cafes providing a variety of food choices for hungry Supercrawl-ers. But yes it was the music lineup that brought me out, and in short it was fantastic.

It was only by chance that I caught Toronto's Bruce Peninsula as I'd happened by their free show (a CD release at that for their new album "Open Flames" which comes out October 4) at Christ’s Church Cathedral. Apparently, Toronto's Snowblink had opened the show. Funny, but I'd never had seen the band live before, and have more than an ounce of regret after hearing what little I did that day. Within the sublime acoustics and environs of the church, the vibrant, vocal indie-folk of the band was mesmerizing. I'd only caught their last song and their encore, but it was enough to count me now as a convert. The band are in the midst of a tour and will be in Toronto on October 27 for a show at Lee's Palace.


Bruce Peninsula @ Supercrawl: photo by Michael Ligon

Having only seen Basia Bulat the week before, playing a solo show in Mississauga at Celebration Square, I was super excited to see her perform with the Hamilton Philharmonic Orchestra. With the Orchestra adding illustrious arrangements to Basia's tunes and with Basia herself changing the phrasing of her vocals somewhat, these versions were quite a bit different than I'd heard from her before. And yes it worked very well. As a Hamilton outsider, when I think of Hamilton, a symphony orchestra does not come to mind, but after this set, Hamilton has proven its cultural depth with the Hamilton Philharmonic Orchestra's blissful performance with Miss Bulat.


Basia Bulat with the Hamilton Philharmonic Orchestra @ Supercrawl: photo by Michael Ligon

As the sun went down and then set, after a long setup, Montreal trio Plants and Animals took the stage for a vibrant set of their tactile and jammy rock music. "Faerie Dance" with the audience participation of "la la la la la la la la la" was perhaps their finest moment of the night. Terribly disappointing that the band's long set-up time meant the band had to cut their set short, but otherwise it was a fine set.


Plants and Animals @ Supercrawl: photo by Michael Ligon

Who might Paley and Francis be? Well, the Francis refers to Black Francis - yes, that one, sometimes also referred to as Frank Black. But no this was not a Pixies set nor the Frank Black show. Francis and Paley (Reid Paley that is) took relatively equal duties on lead vocals, and the music drew a bit on the garage rock eccentricities of the Pixies though perhaps with a bit of a blues flavour. With the duo rounded out with a bass player and drummer, it was not as electrifying as I'd hope it be but still to see Black Francis was exciting.


Paley and Francis @ Supercrawl: photo by Michael Ligon

Shooting back to the mainstage I went, to catch Dinosaur Jr. frontman J Mascis sitting on a chair, playing his acoustic guitar through an amp and performing some of Dinosaur Jr.'s more well known songs. Later on in the set, J would bring up Broken Social Scene's Kevin Drew to sing along on "Not Enough". Musically I loved it and J tore through some fantastic guitar solos, although as a whole it was somewhat underwhelming to watch a solo set as the quiet crowd gazed towards him. Part of me wished I could have caught Junior Boys' set down the street, but that stage was too far to get to and I wanted to secure a spot for Broken Social Scene's headlining set.


J Mascis (with Kevin Drew) @ Supercrawl: photo by Michael Ligon

Broken Social Scene's show at Harbourfront Centre in 2009 was my favourite show by them ever, with the extended BSS family like Feist and Emily Haines popping out the woodworks to make it a very special show. Broken Social Scene are a much more streamlined animal these days with a core lineup of Kevin Drew, Brendan Canning, Charles Spearin, Andrew Whiteman, Justin Peroff, Lisa Lobsinger and Sam Goldberg making up the band. Kevin mentioned that this was their last show in Ontario for a long time, and with recent news of the band going on an indefinite hiatus, I'm glad to have caught the band this time. No special guests unfortunately for this how, but the band did seem to have a pep in their step as they played selection of favourites from their last three albums and apparently also including a cover of Modest Mouse's "World At Large". It was neither the band's best nor worst show but as a capper to the festival it was a keeper. I have no doubt the band will be back (and have not broken up). I think we've all started to take the band for granted, especially over the last several years, and I think now's the perfect time for the band to take a break, both for themselves and from us, but I think when the band eventually make their return, it will be monumental.


Broken Social Scene @ Supercrawl: photo by Michael Ligon

For my complete photoset of Supercrawl, check out the link below:

Photos: Supercrawl in Hamilton, ON (September 10, 2011)

Food-Fashion: Pink Fried Chicken...

We can thank something called the Onchmovement for Nicki’s latest red carpet run in… Food-Fashion accessories are popping up all around us these days, but Im not so sure I would opt for a pink-fried-chicken wing as a choice red carpet look. Oh but don’t you worry, if you’re not a wing kinda gal this deep fried pink piece of goodness comes in a hand battered juicy drumstick as well! As they say… “Get it while its hot!”

{Hot Pink & Plastic Each wing is hand battered so no two pieces are the same!}

{best week ever but you can’t reinvent the wheel. So you might as well just turn to the chicken community for assistance with helping make an outfit “pop,” to speak...}

{and that she did!}

{By far the most outrageous fashion moment of the 2010 MTV Music Video Awards}

 {Dolce & Gabbana serve up “carbohydrate couture” with pasta earrings}

The Art of Mixing Prints from Mary Katrantzou and Michael van der Ham

At London Fashion Week, a huge trend was combining and meshing patterns, and two designers I think did an amazing job were Mary Katrantzou and Michael van der Ham.  Both created dresses that are bold and vibrant, and while I think mixing prints can be risky and result in an overwhelming and sometimes tacky look, these two designers managed to create chic and edgy outfits that are eye-catching, elaborate and unique.

Mary Katrantzou

Michael van der Ham

(images from vogue.com)